N othing says "antiquity" quite like an amphitheater, and this is a big one. In fact, it's the third largest Roman amphitheater in the world. Only Rome's Coliseum and the Santa Maria Capua Vetere outside Naples are larger. What makes this one special, however, is that in spite of age, weather, and earthquakes it remains largely intact. True, there are only four arches left in the outer ring, but the inner ring stands as sturdy today as it did 2,000 years ago. Back then the main events were bloody gladiator battles, bullfights, and the killing of Christians. Befitting the city that is the home to Shakespeare's "Romeo and Juliet" the amphitheater is now a center of dramatic performance. With a capacity of 20,000 this venue could hold almost the entire population of Verona when it was built. Today crowds gather for operas, concerts, and plays. The acoustics are so good that microphones are never used. In the winter The Arena keeps its artsy face on by supporting a giant star sculpture. It symbolizes Christmas and the star that led the Three Wise Men to seek the savior. In addition to being a great piece of unusual sculpture, children sometimes take a swing on the star.