T ucked away in a remote corner of southeast Asia is a town learning to appreciate its history. Luang Prabang is a victim of the political and military turmoil that has plagued this region for more than 150 years. It has retained its traditions and part of its culture embodied in the magnificent temples that litter the area. They are ancient, ornate, and revered. But they are also somewhat familiar. That is because of the way the town's history was muddied by a series of conflicts with Thailand starting in 1887. Before then there were 60 temples in this jungled hills. By the time the French brought peace in 1893, half had to be rebuilt. But their reconstruction was not pure. The local craftsmen adopted some of the techniques and styles of the French and incorporated them into their designs. Still, the temples are festooned with intricate patterns carved of wood, anointed in gold and red inside and out. Today, Luang Prabang is poised to become an important point on the map. New road construction is linking it with China, Cambodia, and Thailand. Already there are efforts to inaugurate scheduled commercial air service, and tourists from Thailand cross the border to marvel at this village and its temples lost in time. The local leaders originally tried to clean up the town to make it more amenable to visitors, but have since been convinced that the teeming markets, energetic streets, and exciting local flavors and smells will ultimately draw more tourists by maintaining the traditional culture.
