T his is the first shopping mall in Amsterdam. While Americans are used to flat expanses of lifeless stores, this mall used an existing urban space to create a unique atmosphere that is not only conducive to frenzied shopping, but also to spending a leisurely lunch plotting one's next move. It was originally a post office building, but shows little trace of its heritage as such. The original post office was built on this spot in 1748. It was closed in 1854, demolished, and then in 1899 the building you see today opened to a fanfare of ridicule. Many thought the Postkantoor was too ornate for a government building, especially in a city with such a strong Calvinist ethic. The building's style was derided as "post office gothic" and a pale imitation of the grand Nieuwe Kirk next door. Today it gets more respect -- from admirers who appreciate its intricate stonework to teens who shop for the latest fashions in the "American Store."