T his church casts an imposing presence on one of the most lively parts of Amsterdam. It overlooks the area where people spill out of the main train station searching for hotels, food, and tourist information. The brown stone church is a monolithic presence, but somehow doesn't seem out of place. It was built to replace several of the secret Catholic churches in the city once religious tolerance became widespread. Inside, square pillars hold up an impossibly high ceiling that might seem to stretch to the heavens if it were better lit. The church is one of many devoted to Saint Nicholas in this waterlogged city, which is understandable since he is the patron saint of seamen.