T his is the center of the old section of Antwerp, and was the hub of activity for more than a thousand years. At one time Antwerp and Paris were the largest and most important cities in Europe. It was then that this square, lined with beautifully ornamented guild houses, was the focus of a bustling metropolis. Now that Antwerp's Golden Age has passed, the square is much quieter; but is still culturally significant as a gathering place for special events. When we paid our first visit, on January 16, 2000, not only were the Christmas tree, bandstands, and scaffolding still up, but there were workers sweeping up piles of shattered champagne bottles from New Year's Eve. This is either a tribute to just how big the party was, or how slow-paced this section of Antwerp has become. While the Stadhuis (city hall) is the focus of the square, a statue of Silvius Brabo erected in 1887 dominates the opposite end. He is frozen in time, forever hefting the severed hand of Druon Antigon toward the Scheldt River. For an explanation of why severed hands are important to Antwerp, see the entry on the Castle Steen. Other myths are represented here, in a much smaller scale, gilded on the gables of the surrounding buildings. Among them: the perennial European favorite -- King George and the Dragon.